Paddling the Seine
By Bartley Kives
Winnipeg Free Press
Saturday, May 4, 2002

Last Spring, Free Press photographer Phil Hossack and I paddled the lower 14 kilometres of Omand's Creek, following the waterway from bucolic farmland in the R.M. of Rosser, past the industrial wastes of Dublin Avenue and the big-box stores of Empress Street on the way down to its mouth at the Assiniboine River.

We were shocked to find an abundance of wildlife sharing space with an even more shocking mess of garbage on what has to be the most abused of Winnipeg's eight waterways. The illuminating four-hour trip got me hooked on the concept of urban canoeing-the idea that any sliver of water is navigable if you pick the right time, and choose a bulletproof boat.

Omand's Creek is only navigable for about two weeks out of every year. This moisture-deprived spring, you couldn't paddle it at all.

So my attention turned to Winnipeg's most picturesque waterway, the Seine River, especially after property developer Ladco enraged conservationists last month by cutting a swath through riverside forest in southern St. Vital.

The issue is pretty simple: The developer wants to build a bridge connecting future homes on the east side of the Seine to Southglen Boulevard on the west. Conservation group Save Our Seine is against the structure, especially since another new bridge is set to cross the Seine only half a kilometre to the south, at Warde Avenue.

One properly built bridge at Warde Avenue should be able to satisfy everybody. But to get a handle on the meandering river that inspires so much passion, I had to paddle it.

Underground

From headwaters south of Marchand, MB, the Seine snakes about 70 kilometres from southeastern Manitoba and through Winnipeg before it drains into the Red River, just east of Whittier Park. It is interrupted by the Winnipeg Floodway, which forces the Seine's water underground for an entire kilometre, which prevents fish and paddlers from enjoying its entire length.

Last Sunday, I canoed most of the Seine's run within city limits, beginning just north of the Floodway at Prairie Grove Road. Despite warnings from other paddlers about endless, time-consuming meanders the 25-kilometre trip took only six leisurely hours.

The first stretch of Winnipeg's portion of the Seine, from Prairie Grove to the Perimeter Highway and on up to Bishop Grandin Boulevard, is almost pristine. This time of year, Canada geese protect their young at every bend, while mating pairs of mallards, wood ducks and solitary muskrats are very common. Evidence of beaver activity is everywhere, but the Seine is remarkably passable. Over the course of 25 clicks, fellow paddler Shaun Murphy and I only had to jump out of our aluminum Grumman six times for small carry-overs. Otherwise we didn't encounter a single portage.

The weight of history also is tangible on the Seine, as the area near John Bruce Road used to be Louis Riel's old stomping ground. But as soon as you cross underneath Bishop Grandin, the river demystifies and urbanizes, winding alongside middle-class backyards and three unnaturally green golf courses on its way to Fermor Avenue and Marion Street.

This stretch of the Seine is clearly enjoyed by its human residents, many of whom sport canoes on riverside yards fortified with erosion barriers. But it's also home to plenty of garbage, from the usual urban detritus of plastic bags and liquor bottles to more obnoxious blocks of concrete and discarded furniture.

Abused

North of Marion is where the Seine is really abused, as scrap metal is strewn along the riverbank, a rusted vintage car pokes out of the bush and some undetermined industrial venture has deliberately dumped a pile of wood chips and tree stumps right into the river!

Even worse, the riverbank just south of Provencher Boulevard is polluted with an ugly and pungent mass of coal tar on land adjacent to shingle company IKO Manitoba Ltd. This mess, which dates back more than 50 years, predates the company's acquisition of the plant and will be cleaned up as soon as an engineering firm completes a soil remediation study, IKO spokesman John Stefaniuk says.

But even some sludgy black stuff doesn't destroy the Seine experience near the bottom of the river. This close to the mouth, you finally can see the splash of catfish or carp. By the time you enter the wider windy Red River at Whittier Park, you'll be sorry to leave the intimate confines of the Seine.

From a recreational travel standpoint, this is a gimme of a daytrip. Just make sure you take a tough canoe, (ABS, kevlar or aluminum will do), prepare to get your feet wet on the carry-overs and put aside your claustrophobia for passages through two narrow culverts-one at [Prairie Grove] Road, the other at a contemptuously low bridge at Windsor Park Golf Course. And be wary-if you attempt narrow culvert passages after a heavy rainfall, you might get stuck!

To shorten your trip you can put your canoe in at Bishop Grandin. Wherever you start, get someone to shuttle your vehicle to Whittier Park, right next to Fort Gibraltar. You also can continue the trip an additional 2.5 kilometres by paddling along the Red River to The Forks, where you can dock your canoe and grab a latté.

Finally, a note of caution: The Seine is only one metre deep, but you still need to regard it as a waterway. Take lifejackets, a bailer and an extra line of rope, along with a rainshell, drinking water and plenty of carbs.


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